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 01-06-2009, 20:12 Post: 159144
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Dear friends,

If any of you are interested in knowing the torque specifications for your vehicle repair projects, please ask. I have the complete specs for most vehicles....cars and trucks.

For example, if you're currently replacing the flywheel on your 88 Ford F-150, I can provide you with all torque specifications.

If you are replacing a head on a 91 Chevy Caprice, I can provide you with the bolt tightening sequence pattern, as well as the torque specifications.

I'm always happy to help.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 06:56 Post: 159150
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Earthwrks,

The Borg Warner stuff I have experience with is nothing but pure junk. I will NEVER own another Borg Warner transfer case. I don't know about their viscous drive units, but if it were up to me I'd be looking for one made by someone else.

Your viscous drive unit is electronically controlled. Depending upon the cooling requirements, the clutch engages accordingly. In other words, the clutch may not fully engage. It is designed to slip as part of its normal operation. The hotter the engine gets, the less slip from the clutch.

I don't like it. It's never a good idea to slip ANY clutch for more than a few seconds. The onboard computer "decides" how much cooling is required, as well as how much the clutch should be allowed to slip. (probably because they needed to meet some government demand regarding fuel economy)

With your truck shut off, and completely cool, you can test your viscous fan drive by hand. Give it a spin. If it spins at least five full revolutions on its own, it's shot.

Before I can provide you with any alternative replacement parts, I'll need to know the exact model of your pickup, as well as the engine VIN code.

Looking forward to helping you if I can.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 07:24 Post: 159151
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Earthwrks,

There's mention made of the possibility that your clutch may be leaking fluid. If this is the case, it won't engage. Slight seepage isn't uncommon, but a leak would certainly prevent it from engaging.

Since these clutches are designed to slip on a routine basis, the excessive heat buildup (like that in a torque converter) could take out the seals, causing a major leak. The fluid drive can't function with the fluid.

If your fan spins freely through 5 full rotations, the fluid is probably gone.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 08:17 Post: 159156
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Earthwrks,

500 bucks, huh?

I have a few part numbers available to me, depending on your exact Engine VIN, but none of them are much over 200 dollars.

2003 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5.9L 359cid L6 DIESEL FI Turbo
Dorman Part Number 622003
Price = $206.79 + shipping
Source = rockauto.com

Factory part number = 52028879AD
Dealer Price = $257.00

Torque specs =
Fan to clutch bolts = 17 lb. ft.
Fan/clutch assembly to engine fan hub = 24 lb. ft.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 08:59 Post: 159161
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Frank,

Until they make an air wrench that positively displays the applied torque readings, I won't be trusting them.

All bolts are tightened by hand, using a quality torque wrench. I can't tell you how many different styles and types of torque wrenches I have around here, but I find a need for another one nearly every year.

Most specs now call for a degree meter torque wrench. For example, "Tighten the bolt to 87 lb. ft, then turn another 22 degrees." Oh boy. More wrenches.....and a bigger tool box!

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 10:03 Post: 159165
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Earthwrks,

Those torque wrench extensions are color coded according to the amount of measured maximum torque each is capable of producing. It depends on the metallurgy (chemical composition) involved.

Some metals are softer, and therefore twist a bit more than others. This twisting effectively reduces the maximum amount of torque the extension can apply to a bolt.....preventing TOO MUCH torque from being applied.

Unfortunately, there is no sure way of knowing for sure if the minimum recommended torque was ever reached. No matter which extension is used, the minimum torque applied is always suspect.

I always use the color rated at least one lower than my intended final torque specs. I then use a hand-held torque wrench for the final adjustment. This prevents a guy from having to turn a hand-held torque wrench several revolutions before reaching the desired value. I don't depend on them, but they do save a lot of time removing and replacing sockets, as they get a guy close to the desired final readings.

For extremely critical things, such as head bolts, intake manifold bolts, exhaust manifolds, etc....I don't use an air impact wrench at all. I always fear the possibility of stripping out the threads in an engine block.....especially aluminum blocks.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 14:49 Post: 159173
candoarms



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Earthwrks,

You might be one of the lucky ones........

The manual I have shows the clutch going into the front of the fan. If you look at the front of the fan, the clutch is the first thing visible.

NOW.........

There's a BIG WARNING note in the manual mentioning that some vehicles have a reverse rotation fan. If your fan is one of these, it should be marked with the word "REVERSE" in bold letters. If so, you will need a reverse rotation viscous clutch to go with it.

Unfortunately, there is no diagram showing the reverse fan and clutch assembly setup. Therefore, I have no idea if this is what you have. However, I can tell you that your description of the assembly looks nothing like the photo in my manual.

You may have one of those orphans that come along between major design changes.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 15:12 Post: 159174
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Earthwrks,

I looked up your VIN number. Thanks for that. You have a 2003 Ram 2500 with the 5.9L straight 6 diesel.

When looking at the fan from the front of the truck, does your fan rotate clockwise or counterclockwise?

The picture in my manual shows your fan rotating counterclockwise, when viewed from the front....Clockwise when viewed from the driver's seat.


Joel






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 01-07-2009, 15:33 Post: 159175
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Earthwrks,

Do you have air conditioning on your truck?

And are you sure your belt is routed correctly? If your belt is routed incorrectly, the viscous drive unit won't spin the fan.....even if it's working properly.

Just wondering.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 18:46 Post: 159181
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Earthwrks,

Well, you've lost me here. It seems that you have the standard fan and clutch shown in my manuals, but your description of it is quite different than the pictures I see on this end.

Oh......and there's nothing wrong with having a belt with 95,000 miles on it. Belts can last a very long time. It might not be a bad idea to keep a new belt in the toolbox, however. Better yet, someplace where it won't get chewed up.....maybe under the back seat?

I really wish I could help you find the clutch you need, but I'm afraid this one is something my manuals simply don't cover.

And here I thought I had a winner. First problem I face, I can't solve it. Life is like that for me quite often, it seems.

Joel






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 01-08-2009, 11:08 Post: 159205
candoarms



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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Murf,

You're right, Sir....there always seems to be a catch.

I wonder if there isn't a way to fasten the two clutch halves permanently together..... completely eliminating the slip function.

A heavy towing rig is going to need to have the fan engaged most of the time anyway. I'd be very tempted to find a way to drive that fan 100% of the time. During cold weather, I'd install something to reduce the amount of cold air passing through the radiator.

The fuel mileage might drop a little bit, but a guy can buy a lot of fuel for the money needed to replace that clutch.

Joel






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 01-08-2009, 12:01 Post: 159209
candoarms



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Murf,

Maybe it's just me. I don't adapt well to new things.

My old trucks deliver power to the fan blade at all times, and I've never had any problems with any of them.

Don't get me wrong......I work on my old trucks all the time. I recently replaced a leaking gas tank on one, as well as the brakes and a few bushings. But, that truck has over 250,000 miles on it.

Certain things must be replaced over time, but I see a whole lot of newer vehicles in the repair shops these days.....with fewer than 50,000 miles on them.

I do a lot of head-scratching. No wonder I'm bald. hehehe.

Joel






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Car Tires and Maintenance Forum

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